anti-sunscreen conspiracy theorists want you to ignore shocking skin cancer stats
7 minute read
while there's a misconception that "clean," "natural" and "chemical-free" products are superior, chemicals aren't — by default — bad. getty
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if the skin care community has one rule, it is: wear sunscreen. wear it every day, in every kind of weather. wear it even if you’re going to stay inside. it’s similar to the messaging many of us got from protective parents at a young age: take precautions, because the sun can cause a lot of damage, both medically and aesthetically. after all, skin cancer is among the most common forms of cancer in the world: one out of every three cancers diagnosed globally are those that affect the skin.
but even with these shocking stats, there are those who continue to believe that using sunscreen is bad for our health. people like convicted con man kevin trudeau falsely claims that sunscreen actually causes skin cancer, instead of preventing it. while others, like fringe doctor paul saladino, claim that all you really need to do to protect your skin from the sun is avoid eating seed oils.
and it’s not just conspiracy theorists that tout the dangers of products used for sun protection. it seems like every year, as we start to see — and feel — more of the sun, there’s something in the news about the chemicals you might find in your sunscreen. so it’s not surprising that people would be uncertain about the safety of what they are putting on their skin. in fact, just last may, the american online pharmacy valisure conducted routine batching testing on 294 sunscreens and found that 78 tested positive for benzene — a sweet-smelling, petroleum-based substance. by july, johnson & johnson recalled the spray version of its neutrogena beach defence and ultra sheer sunscreens after elevated benzene levels were detected. a few months later, ombrelle canada recalled two of its spray sunscreens for the same concern.
the highest concentration of benzene is usually found in aerosol products. it’s not totally clear why, according to the environmental working group, but the source of benzene contamination “may be inactive petroleum-derived ingredients like thickening agents, spray propellants and anti-fungal preservatives.”
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at the time of the recalls, health canada issued a statement that elevated levels of benzene — which is also present in car exhaust — can cause drowsiness, dizziness, rapid or irregular heartbeat, and headaches, while long-term exposure “may lead to serious health effects, including various forms of cancer such as leukemia, anemia (low red blood cells), and bone marrow failure.”
but — and this is important — benzene is not a typical ingredient of sunscreen. rather, it occurs as a contaminant, according to good housekeeping, or a byproduct of manufacturing. there is, however, one chemical that sometimes finds its way into sun protection products: oxybenzone, one of several chemical filters that absorb uv radiation, but also one of the most controversial ingredients in chemical sunscreen.
chemical vs mineral sunscreens
there are two main kinds of sunscreen that protect against ultraviolet (uv) radiation. mineral sunscreens, sometimes called physical sunscreens, form a physical barrier on the skin through ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, victoria, b.c.-based dermatologist dr. tess peters explains. that physical barrier, effective as it is, can be somewhat irritating in that it often leaves a white cast on the face. it can also be irritating to people prone to acne, as it can sometimes contribute to breakouts.
chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, use a combination of chemicals that absorb the sun’s radiation to protect the skin without that physical barrier. they don’t leave white residue on the face, however, they do contain oxybenzone and another chemical called octinoxate that some object to.
chemicals aren’t always bad
chemicals in skin care products is a complicated topic. while there’s a misconception that “clean,” “natural” and “chemical-free” products are superior, chemicals aren’t — by default — bad. in fact, sometimes they serve an important purpose. preservatives, for example, are crucial in sunscreen and in other skin care creams and serums to prevent contamination by germs, such as the bacteria that can pass from our hands to the product when we touch it.
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and when it comes to “clean beauty,” the term isn’t regulated, so claims from skincare brands that their products are “clean” mean nothing specific. any company can market a product as “clean,” sowing fear in a consumer’s mind about other, presumably “dirty” products, and how dangerous they may be.
“the marketing of clean beauty products is misleading, as virtually all have some chemical additives for stability and preservation,” peters says. “there is no regulation on what clean beauty means, but both cosmetic and natural products are regulated by health canada to ensure they are safe.”
but as industry-critical beauty writer jessica defino has written about extensively, acknowledging that “clean” is simply marketing language can sometimes lead people to believe that there isn’t any reason to be suspicious of any chemicals at all, when, in fact, it’s a good idea to be informed about what we’re putting on our faces and bodies.
so, is oxybenzone dangerous?
oxybenzone was banned in hawaii in 2018, along with octinoxate, while two other uv filters, avobenzone and octocrylene, were banned three years later.
“studies show that all four of these petrochemical sunscreens are toxic to human health, coral reefs and marine species,” hawaii’s state senate explained in a press release that outlined concerns about sunscreen washing off from people’s bodies into the water, and the chemicals damaging marine ecosystems.
“studies are showing that the levels of oxybenzone that are entering our environment are contributing to coral reef bleaching and it is also impacting the development of aquatic organisms such as fish, mammals like dolphins and even things like mussels and sea urchins,” muhannad malas, toxics program manager at environmental defence canada, explained to the weather network.
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he went on to explain that while there hasn’t been similar research into oxybenzone’s effect on wildlife in canada, “the risks can be translated to canada in terms of our aquatic life on both coasts.”
but when it comes to human health, health canada and the canadian dermatology association both say oxybenzone is safe and effective. the canadian cancer society says some small-scale studies have found that oxybenzone “can cause minor changes to cells in a petri dish” but that “there is currently no evidence linking it to cancer.”
what health canada says about sunscreen safety
health canada published a report about the safety of sunscreen in 2018, which was updated in 2020. the agency tested 27 different sunscreens, with a focus on products aimed at children, to look for adverse skin reactions. researchers found that each one was safe, with only a few “mild to moderate skin reactions” in people with an allergy or sensitivity to specific ingredients.
“the benefits of the regular use of sunscreen to prevent sunburn and reduce the risk of skin cancer continue to greatly outweigh any risk of local skin reactions,” the report’s authors concluded.
but a more recent american study, published in the journal of the american medical association in 2019, found that oxybenzone — along with similar filters avobenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule — can be absorbed into the bloodstream. and while the study authors said the amount absorbed didn’t warrant banning the ingredients entirely, they noted that “the systemic absorption of sunscreen active ingredients supports the need for further studies.”
that finding is certainly alarming, but it’s also worth contextualizing: as beauty science educator and chemistry ph.d michelle wong explained to the cut, the amount of chemical absorbed into the blood is about 0.5 ng/ml, which equates to “half a drop in a million drops of something.”
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some anti-sunscreen advocates don’t even bother with logic
clearly, there are some valid concerns to be had about the makeup of some chemical sunscreens, but take a moment to consider that anti-sunscreen conspiracy theorist saladino — who claims that sunscreen is a scam and that our bodies actually need unfiltered sun — also
says toothpaste and vegetables are harmful to our health.
the bottom line
health canada, the canadian dermatology association and the canadian cancer society all say oxybenzone is safe — the cda even lists safe and effective sunscreens on its website.
“if you have any concerns about the safety of your sunscreen, it’s best to stick with one that is either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, because we know these are safe,” says peters. (you may also want to consider avoiding aerosols in order to dodge the possibility of benzene contamination.)
other dermatologists echo peters. of the 2019 study that found absorption of certain chemicals in to the bloodstream, dr. shereene idriss told the cut: “this study is not meant to scare anyone or modify behaviours. this study is shedding light on a topic that requires more studies and more data in order to reach an objective, clearly defined conclusion. the sun’s uv rays are a known, well-established, scientifically proven cause of skin cancer.”
in other words, there is a possibility that there may be harmful chemicals in some kinds of sunscreen, but not using it raises your cancer risk. we’ll leave it to you to decide what’s best for your health.
maija kappler is a reporter and editor at healthing. you can reach her at mkappler@postmedia.com
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