sunscreen for every shade: why your skin tone doesn’t influence sun protection needs
5 minute read
skin cancer is less prevalent in people with darker skin tones, but when it does develop, it's often diagnosed in the later stages, making the prognosis worse.
adobe
stay up to date on this topic
many people believe that sunscreen isn’t required for those with darker skin tones because they cannot experience sun damage. however, that sentiment is simply not true. the worst kind of damage caused by the sun, skin cancer, is less common in people with darker skin, particularly people who are black, but when it occurs, the prognosis is often worse.
“people of colour, they tend to be diagnosed at later stages, and so their survival rates are significantly decreased compared to whites,” said krista rubin, melanoma nurse practitioner at mass general brigham, noting that on the opposite end, when found early, the success rates of curing or treating skin cancer are just as high across all racial ethnicities.
why sun protection is equally important for people with darker skin tones
human beings are exposed to the sun year-round, anytime they’re outside, even if it’s cloudy and even if it’s snowy.
“every day we go out, we run out to the mailbox, we go to our cars, we are getting exposure, and it’s chronic ultraviolet exposure,” said rubin. “that all adds up and causes damage to the dna, and if dna is damaged enough, it turns into abnormal cells, i.e. skin cancer.”
there are three types of uv rays: a, b, and c. uva rays “penetrate deeper into the skin” and are associated with long-term skin damage, such as signs of aging and wrinkles. uvb rays don’t penetrate as deeply into the skin and are associated with sunburn and other more serious damage.
just because a person has a darker skin tone doesn’t mean that they’re exempt from the exposure, and they can still get sunburns and skin cancer, even if it may present a little differently than how it does on people with lighter skin tones.
it all has to do with melanocytes, specialized skin cells that determine a person’s skin colour. people, regardless of race, have roughly the same number of melanocytes, but in those with darker skin, those cells are more active, producing more black or brown pigment.
advertisement
these melanocytes are “responsible for causing skin cancer,” said rubin, when dna damage occurs enough to change some of them into abnormal cells.
sunscreen based on skin tone
when it comes to the level of sun protection factor, or spf, needed to protect people from sun damage, people of all skin tones should reach for a minimum of spf30. that said, people who are black may need less sun protection because the increased melanin in their skin provides some sun protection. however, it’s not always enough to offset sun damage that leads to skin cancer.
“it’s possible that a person with darker skin doesn’t really need that strong of sun protection. maybe they could get away with an spf of 15, but the reality is they still do need sunscreen, and they can tan, and a tan in somebody of colour is just as dangerous as a tan of somebody who has lighter skin, said rubin.
there are two types of sunscreens available: physical blockers and chemical. physical blockers, made with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, essentially block the sun’s rays from getting into the skin, acting as a sort of invisible suit that causes rays to bounce right off.
chemical sunscreens are a little more complicated. the sun’s rays are still able to penetrate the skin, but once they do, it transform uva into a different type of energy so they cannot cause damage.
when it comes to the better choice, physical blockers tend to win out because “they don’t have to be applied 30 minutes in advance,” and they’re free of chemicals if people are trying to keep their bodies free of potentially harmful ingredients. the issue is that many physical blockers were not designed for people with darker skin, and are thicker, opaque and leave a white cast on the skin.
so, what can people with darker skin tones do to get both the sun protection they need in a formula that works for them?
advertisement
choosing the right sunscreen for you
“they do make zinc oxide that’s clear,” said rubin, about newly available formulations that don’t leave as much of a residue. some clear brands that are less likely to leave any white cast are eltamd uv clear.
there are also brands that have made sunscreen specifically for darker skin tones, such as black girl sunscreen and fenty beauty. these sunscreens come with an spf of 30 or higher, making them great options for people with darker skin tones, helping them stay protected without leaving any visible residue.
the most important thing is to understand that, yes, people with darker skin tones can get burns, sun damage and skin cancer, and it’s important to stay protected. since skin cancer can often be missed in people with darker skin tones, knowing the risks and addressing them before it even has a chance to develop is the best way to avoid having a devastating diagnosis later on.
as for application rules, they apply to people of all skin tones. you have to reapply every hour and a half to two hours, or if you’re sweating or swimming, because “there’s no such thing as waterproof.” you can also use the two-finger rule to know that you’re getting all the spf per application: apply enough sunscreen to cover your pointer and middle fingers, then use that amount for each area of skin, such as the arms, face, legs, and abdomen. if you don’t use that much, “you’re only getting half or a quarter of the spf” in the bottle.
other forms of protection include wearing clothes that cover the skin, staying in the shade wherever possible, avoiding the sun during peak hours (around noon to 2 p.m.), and wearing sunhats and sunglasses.
“we want the message out there to be that whatever colour skin you have, you want to be protecting the largest organ that you have, which is the skin,” said rubin. “it’s a lot of work to protect yourself from the sun. it really is. but i think if we just make it kind of an everyday lifestyle, it is a little bit easier.”
advertisement
share story
