cook this: 3 recipes from chocolate baking, including a lazy baked alaska
9 minute read
clockwise from top left: author edd kimber, dinner party cake (a.k.a. double baked flourless chocolate cake), blueberry tarragon white chocolate cheesecake tart, and lazy baked alaska. photos by matthew hague
our cookbook of the week is chocolate baking by edd kimber.
jump to the recipes: lazy baked alaska, blueberry tarragon white chocolate cheesecake tart, and dinner party cake (a.k.a. double-baked flourless chocolate cake).
“no one is disappointed when you turn up with a chocolate cake,” says british baker and food writer edd kimber. there’s something about baking in general, but baking and chocolate in particular, that puts a smile on people’s faces. “it’s kind of the ultimate way of doing something nice for other people, is to make them an amazing batch of chocolate chip cookies or some brownies or a chocolate cake for someone’s birthday,” he adds. “plus, it’s just the most delicious thing in the world.”
kimber, who won the inaugural season of the great british bake off in 2010, considers his seventh cookbook, chocolate baking (quadrille, 2026), “a love letter, a lifetime in the making.” in more than 100 recipes ranging from cakes to pastries, he explores chocolate’s role not only as the hero but as a supporting player.
he’s always thought of his books as trying to solve a problem, and chocolate baking is no different. as much as people love chocolate, kimber saw an opportunity to teach the techniques they might find intimidating. the book begins with a chocolate primer, glossary and overview of methods including tempering and melting — and what to do if your chocolate seizes.
“chocolate is an expensive ingredient, and if it goes wrong, i don’t want it to put you off doing things again because i think oftentimes when home bakers struggle with things, they blame themselves rather than a poorly written recipe or a lack of information. so, it was really trying to be the everything-you-need-to-approach-chocolate book, and hopefully it does its job.”
chocolate baking is edd kimber’s seventh cookbook.
quadrille
kimber recalls conversations he had at the beginning of the book-writing process, when people assumed chocolate baking would be limited to dark. “i thought, how boring would a book on chocolate be if everything tasted only of dark chocolate?”
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instead, kimber uses dark, white, milk and caramelized white chocolate in the recipes. he addresses the common confusion between the types of cocoa powder, explains why ethical sourcing matters, and how to buy chocolate to bake with. chocolate chips may be many people’s go-to, but kimber encourages bakers to use bar chocolate or professional-grade couverture chocolate for better quality and taste.
in the recipes, kimber set out to show how well chocolate pairs with other flavours, whether nutmeg, as in his dinner party cake (a.k.a. double-baked flourless chocolate cake), or blueberry and tarragon, as in his white chocolate cheesecake tart. sometimes, chocolate is an accent. at other times, it’s front and centre. “it was kind of like filling in a puzzle piece and trying to make sure that it all fit together in a nice tapestry that really showed what chocolate can be.”
sixteen years after he won the great british bake off, kimber says he will always be proud that that’s where he got his start. he was “incredibly shy” when his friends convinced him to apply, and notes that over the years, the show has fluctuated in popularity. because it was smaller at the start, kimber was able to find his confidence without as much attention.
“that’s the thing that i’m always so proud of. it’s not winning the show, necessarily. it’s taking that moment and using it in a way that changed my life in so many different ways.”
lazy baked alaska
edd kimber’s lazy baked alaska is “a little bit like going to an ice cream parlour and being able to choose all your different toppings.”
matthew hague
serves: 2
blueberry compote:
50 g (1 3/4 oz) blueberries
2 tsp superfine sugar
1 tbsp lemon juice
50 g (1 3/4 oz) blueberries
2 tsp superfine sugar
1 tbsp lemon juice
milk chocolate sauce:
20 g (1/2 oz) milk chocolate, 40 per cent cocoa solids, finely chopped
30 ml (2 tbsp) whipping cream
20 g (1/2 oz) milk chocolate, 40 per cent cocoa solids, finely chopped
30 ml (2 tbsp) whipping cream
swiss meringue:
1 large egg white
50 g (1/4 cup) superfine sugar
small pinch fine sea salt
1/4 tsp vanilla bean paste
1 large egg white
50 g (1/4 cup) superfine sugar
small pinch fine sea salt
1/4 tsp vanilla bean paste
to serve:
20 g (2 tbsp) salted pretzels or salted peanuts, roughly chopped
2 large scoops vanilla ice cream
20 g (2 tbsp) salted pretzels or salted peanuts, roughly chopped
2 large scoops vanilla ice cream
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step 1
for the compote, put everything in a small saucepan, place over a medium heat and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the fruit has broken down and the liquid is thick and syrupy. scrape into a small bowl and set aside until needed. it can also be refrigerated for a couple of days before using, if needed.
step 2
for the chocolate sauce, place everything in a small bowl and heat in a microwave, using short 15-second bursts, until the cream is hot. stir everything together to form a smooth sauce. set aside until needed. the sauce will thicken as it cools, so stir to loosen when needed. the sauce can also be refrigerated for a couple of days before using, but once refrigerated, it will firm up and will need heating slightly to loosen.
step 3
when ready to serve, make the meringue topping. add everything to a heatproof bowl and place over a pan of simmering water. whisk until the mixture is hot to the touch and the sugar has fully dissolved. remove and use an electric mixer to whisk until the meringue holds stiff, glossy peaks, about 3-4 minutes.
step 4
to assemble, divide your pretzels/peanuts between two coupe/martini glasses or other small bowls. top with a scoop of ice cream and use an ice cream scoop or spoon to press down on the ball of ice cream to create a small well. add the compote and then the sauce atop the ice cream. spoon or pipe over the meringue. use a kitchen blowtorch to burnish the meringue until it’s as dark as you want.
step 5
serve immediately.
blueberry tarragon white chocolate cheesecake tart
“the tarragon, the blueberry and the white chocolate together is definitely unusual, but it’s so delicious,” edd kimber says of his no-bake cheesecake tart.
matthew hague
serves: 10-12
biscuit base:
250 g (9 oz) lotus biscoff cookies
125 g (1 stick + 1 tbsp) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 tsp flaked sea salt
250 g (9 oz) lotus biscoff cookies
125 g (1 stick + 1 tbsp) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 tsp flaked sea salt
white chocolate cheesecake:
150 g (5 1/2 oz) white chocolate, finely chopped
115 g (4 oz/1/2 cup) full-fat cream cheese
115 g (4 oz/1/2 cup) mascarpone
125 ml (1/2 cup) whipping cream
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
150 g (5 1/2 oz) white chocolate, finely chopped
115 g (4 oz/1/2 cup) full-fat cream cheese
115 g (4 oz/1/2 cup) mascarpone
125 ml (1/2 cup) whipping cream
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
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blueberry and tarragon compote:
350 g (12 oz/roughly 2 1/2 cups) blueberries
50 g (1/4 cup) superfine sugar
juice 1/2 lemon
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh tarragon
1 tbsp cornstarch
350 g (12 oz/roughly 2 1/2 cups) blueberries
50 g (1/4 cup) superfine sugar
juice 1/2 lemon
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh tarragon
1 tbsp cornstarch
step 1
for the biscuit base, finely crush the biscoff using either a food processor or by placing the cookies in a freezer bag and beating with a rolling pin until finely ground. tip the crumbs into a bowl, add the butter and salt and stir until thoroughly combined. tip this mixture into the base of a 23 cm (9 in) loose-bottomed tart tin and spread, gently pressing it into an even layer. use a flat-bottomed glass to compact the crust across the base and up the sides of the tin. refrigerate whilst you make the cheesecake.
step 2
put the chocolate in a small bowl and melt, using either a microwave or a bain-marie. set aside for about 10 minutes until cool but still fluid. place the chocolate and all of the remaining cheesecake ingredients in a large bowl and whisk until thick and holding soft peaks. scrape atop the biscuit base and spread into an even layer.
step 3
to make the compote, place 250 g (9 oz) of the blueberries, the sugar, lemon juice and tarragon in a saucepan, along with 50 ml (3 1/2 tablespoons) water, and bring to the boil over a medium heat. once at a rolling boil, cook for 3-4 minutes until the fruit is starting to break down and the liquid is slightly reduced. in a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and 2 tablespoons of the liquid from the pan. pour this slurry into the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, for a further minute or until you have a jam-like consistency. scrape the compote into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until needed.
step 4
when ready to serve, remove the compote from the refrigerator and stir through the remaining blueberries. spoon atop the cheesecake, spreading over most of it, but leaving a small border around the edge.
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step 5
kept refrigerated, the cheesecake will keep for up to 2 days.
dinner party cake, a.k.a. double-baked flourless chocolate cake
“it’s incredibly chocolatey, and i really like to serve it with a nutmeg crème anglaise or custard, because nutmeg and chocolate are such a perfect pairing,” edd kimber says of his dinner party cake (a.k.a. double-baked flourless chocolate cake).
matthew hague
serves: 8-10
for the flourless chocolate cake:
250 g (9 oz) dark chocolate (70-80 per cent cocoa solids)
250 g (9 oz) unsalted butter, diced
6 large eggs, separated
120 g (1/2 cup + 1 tbsp, packed) light brown sugar
120 g (1/2 cup + 2 tbsp) superfine sugar
1/4 tsp cream of tartar
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
250 g (9 oz) dark chocolate (70-80 per cent cocoa solids)
250 g (9 oz) unsalted butter, diced
6 large eggs, separated
120 g (1/2 cup + 1 tbsp, packed) light brown sugar
120 g (1/2 cup + 2 tbsp) superfine sugar
1/4 tsp cream of tartar
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
for the nutmeg crème anglaise:
300 ml (1 1/4 cups) whipping cream
300 ml (1 1/4 cups) whole milk
1 whole nutmeg
6 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
100 g (1/2 cup) superfine sugar
300 ml (1 1/4 cups) whipping cream
300 ml (1 1/4 cups) whole milk
1 whole nutmeg
6 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
100 g (1/2 cup) superfine sugar
to serve:
cocoa powder
cocoa powder
step 1
preheat the oven to 180c/160c convection (350f). lightly grease a 20 cm (8 in) round springform cake tin and line the base and sides with baking parchment.
step 2
melt the chocolate and butter in a bain-marie. remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. put the egg yolks and brown sugar in a large bowl set over a pan of simmering water and, using an electric hand mixer, whisk for 2-3 minutes or until the mixture is pale and thick. remove the bowl from the heat, pour in the chocolate mixture and fold together to combine.
step 3
working quickly, wash the beaters of the mixer. put the egg whites, superfine sugar, cream of tartar and salt in another large bowl and whisk until the meringue holds soft peaks. fold a third of the meringue into the chocolate batter, then the remainder in two additions, folding gently until the mixture is streak-free.
step 4
pour half the batter into the prepared tin, spreading gently into an even layer. bake for 25-30 minutes or until risen and domed on top. remove and allow to cool for 10 minutes. during this time, the centre of the cake should cave in on itself a little. if it stays level, use a spoon to lightly compress the cake, creating a slight well. scrape the remaining batter over the cake and gently spread into an even layer. bake for 15 minutes. the top layer will remain very soft, but it will have formed a thin crust.
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step 5
leave to cool to room temperature before transferring to the refrigerator and leaving for at least 6 hours, but preferably overnight.
step 6
to make the crème anglaise, pour the cream and milk into a saucepan. grate about a third of a single nutmeg into the pan, stir to combine, then bring the mixture to a simmer over a medium heat. meanwhile, put the egg yolks, vanilla and sugar in a mixing bowl and whisk until pale. pour over the cream mixture, whisking as you do so, to prevent the eggs from scrambling. pour the custard back into the saucepan, place over a low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. to ensure the custard is fully cooked, it needs to reach between 75 and 80c (167 and 176f). pour the custard into a jug, cover with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours. you can also serve the custard warm, but i absolutely love it cold, so this is my preference.
step 7
to serve, carefully unmould the cake, very gently peel away the parchment from the sides, and dust with cocoa powder. to get the cleanest slices, dip a knife in very hot water, wiping it dry with a kitchen cloth after each slice. serve the slices in a puddle of the crème anglaise.
step 8
the cake can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
note: you can also use a 23 cm (9 in) springform tin (pan) if that is what you have, but you’ll end up with less-defined layers.
as the recipe does use a lot of eggs, you could skip making the custard. simply infuse the same amount of nutmeg into 600 ml (20 fl oz/2 1/2 cups) whipping cream and refrigerate until needed, using as a sauce or whipping to soft peaks.
recipes and images excerpted from chocolate baking by edd kimber (quadrille, march 2026). photography ©matthew hague.
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